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I share your love of good knobs. I was spoiled early on by my pro audio mixing mentor who appreciated good equipment. The feel of a 3" diameter machined aluminum knob on a weighted stepped attenuator was fixed in my mind quite early. Nothing else really compares. As in software design, "Pay attention to the interface, and all else will follow."

With all the work you've done on shielding it is likely you've already been down this road, but have you ever evaluated the "spray on" shielding products, like Super Shield? http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/841.html It is basically a sprayable nickle-flake paint for shielding electronics. I've used it for electrically conductive graffiti (light up!) but its most common use is shielding plastic electronics or stereo enclosures. I'm planning on using it to shield the interior of some all-ceramic enclosure hifi amps I'm working on.

Won't the copper turn green?.....

Copper typically turns green with exposure to outside elements. What is more likely it the copper will oxidize, changing from bright copper to uniform brown, like an old penny. It could also be polished and maintained as brightwork.

Mmh..

1: Jack plug

2: Strap lock?

...Wow, i like where this is going.

I'd vote for the shiny copper, anyway

This is going to look good! Like fossils poking out of a stone. BTW, those aren't the original copper cylinders you made, are they? They seem to have rounder edges and there's no visible solder on them.

Letting the copper oxidize should look well with the swamp ash. Especially if the wear of everyday use leaves the edges and corners of the shields shiny.

I'll follow this build eagerly. Can't wait to see how it will look once the edges have been shaped.

/Alex

Sam — thanks for the suggestion. Knowing you, the light-up graffiti is some pretty sophisticated stuff...I'd love to see photos.

Alex — actually those are the original copper cylinders, but with rounded edges. Contoured tops will make a nice look as well as surface to touch. Silver solder joints are precise and nearly vanished once the cylinders were shaped.

I did experiment with the pipe caps (as per Martin's suggestion) and they work quite well, but require substantial modification due to the manufacturing flare (for ease of fit). Thanks, Martin.

Hmmm...Spider sense tingling...

Cables are annoying, and we never think about straps...

Could it be that you plan to place an endpin jack on the upper bout, having the cable run through the strap to hang down your back, out of the way of your feet?

Having the sheilding be visible is a really neat touch. Your work never fails to amaze me.

Rob — very clever. You are the first to fully grasp the concept. Nice deductive reasoning.

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Rick Toone



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