Fanned frets on Dove's trapezoidal neck profile complicate the bridge mechanism significantly.
I remain concerned about the long term ergonomic considerations of fanned frets that use a non-perpendicular nut, as previously discussed. Over-rotation of the wrist is a troubling requirement, unless the neck is played in a near-vertical position.
(play air guitar at your computer to explore)
Fanned fret systems have strong ergonomic potential (for less vertical neck positions) when using a perpendicular nut. Frets angle progressively toward the bridge along the bass strings. Wrist rotation is intuitive, natural, and comfortable when playing Dove. Particularly when chording. As always — in the balancing act that defines lutherie — new factors emerge:
• Fanned frets are highly suitable for string bending, due to the mathematical interaction between string and fret. For a given amount of string movement, pitch change is more than what we expect from conventionally fretted instruments when strings are pushed, less when strings are pulled. This sharp/flat progression is mathematical (exponential) and requires some adaptation in playing technique.• Bridge design must progressively compensate for string length differences. Dove's low E is 0.5" longer than high E. Intonation compensation adjustment requirements remain, but the intonation point now changes for each string.
After attempting and rejecting several failed bridge designs, I've decided upon the successful system you see here. Each string has an individual "turret" which auto rotates in order to allow the string/anchor point assembly to self-align with its corresponding nut slot. Much like my Libertarian principles, each string is free to act as it best sees fit.
Heh.
The saddle and turret are titanium. The screws and springs are stainless steel. The bridge plates are machined bronze, and will be engraved to match the pattern of the tuning key plates. Strings pass through the top plate and anchor on the back bridge anchor plate, which also aligns the turrets for precise rotation.
All metal decisions optimized toward ultimate tone.
Below are a series of photographs showing the design and machining steps involved.
DOVE SERIES:
Dove Takes Flight
Dovetail
Hip Hole
"Black & White" vs. "Shades of Gray"
"Explosive, sustained action!"
Fanned Frets
Fanned Fret Compensating Bridge

















I tried playing air guitar, and to me, your concern about ergonomics seems valid. When doing a barre chord on the frets close to the nut (with traditional frets), my left wrist is twisted to the max. I haven't tried, but doing so on a usual fanned fretboard must be even worse.
Isn't it possible that slanted frets (i.e. parallel, not fanned) would relax the left wrist of most players?
The frets would then look like this:
[guitar body]\\\\\\\\\\\\\[head]
I haven't seen it done, but it could be interesting to try it out.
It wouldn't give you the benefit of having different scale lengths for each string, but it would be a considerable ergonomic improvement. At least to me.
Posted by: Alex | 2008.09.22 at 08:05 AM
Alex — nifty idea. Good thinking outside the frets.
:)
I'm also interested to learn your wrist feels over rotated, as well.
I've lost some objectivity on this issue, due to my wrist break — having gained back nearly all range of motion, but still facing discomfort if I'm less than cautious.
From personal experience, I could never play slanted nut (conventional) fanned frets without being forced to pull the left elbow in to my navel in order to allow my left wrist to rotate sufficiently.
Thanks for confirming.
Posted by: Rick Toone | 2008.09.22 at 11:46 AM
Well, my wrist actually isn't over-rotated, but in turn, my barre chords are sloppy ;-)
Posted by: Alex | 2008.09.23 at 04:15 PM
It's going to be a beautiful guitar. The black and white images look stylish, but some colour ones would be nice as well. Especially when materials such as bronze are involved. Perhaps you could keep the clickable images black and white and once the reader clicks, a colour image appears?
Have you settled on a design and method for the engraving of the bridge and tuner plates? Personally, I'd like to try this method:
http://steampunkworkshop.com/steampunk-strat.shtml
...on a pickguard or a tele control plate some day, though it'd problably be more art nouveau inspired and have less sprockets.
Is it bell bronze, btw? And did you choose it (over e.g. brass or steel) for looks or for sound?
/Alex
Posted by: Alex | 2008.09.26 at 06:26 AM
Thanks, Alex.
:)
I'm planning to go color on Dove soon. Cherry is one of those woods that is very nondescript in raw form. Bland and neutral washed out pink. I find it is difficult to get photographs to show depth. Hence the B&W.
But as soon as you add finish to cherry...ZING. It turns gorgeous shades of red, which deepen dramatically over time with exposure to UV. There is a cherry desk that has been in my family for over 200 years and you can seemingly see an inch into the wood.
Takes your breath away.
Regarding the bronze — it is "bell" or "propeller" bronze. I'm moving away from metals that "thunk" when you hit them. If I hold a corner of the sheet bronze and strike it with a hammer handle, it chimes. Same with titanium & aircraft grade aluminium (albeit at different pitches).
The engraving pattern will match the motif on the Waverly tuners: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tuners/Guitar,_slotted_peghead_tuners/7/Waverly_Slotted_Peghead_Guitar_Tuners/Pictures.html#details
Posted by: Rick Toone | 2008.09.26 at 12:05 PM
The Waverly tuners are amazing, I have them on a custom guitar with matching hardware. I can only imagine how they will look on the dove with the matching engraved bridge plate!
Posted by: Jesse Danger | 2008.10.08 at 11:09 AM